Volume 04, Number 08
Dining
Priya
by Marie Teather
Word has been spreading recently among Tokyo’s international community about a curry house fast becoming a staple on the expat dining scene. Set on the third floor at the end of Hiroo’s shoten gai, you’d be forgiven for not noticing it’s modest opening which came after several years of research—the efforts of the staff and management do not go unmissed. To put it simply, the food and the service are impeccable and when both of these exceed your expectations, you’ll tell your friends and go back for more.
The interior is reminiscent of curry houses to be found back in cities like London or New York. Cool, dark wooden furniture contrasted by crisp white tablecloths and nothing more, makes for a sleek yet laid-back ambiance. Upon entering the only hint of its ethnic origin is the softly playing Indian music but once seated the hospitality is 100 percent Indian.
The extensive menu combines the regulars; kormas, jal farezis, masalas and of course tikka masala, with authentic vegetable and tandoori dishes. While you’re pondering over what to order you may spare a thought for the chef Negi, who arrives at the restaurant at 8am every morning to start preparing the day’s ingredients and will stay until midnight. Although he confesses that the vegetables available in Japan are not to his preferred standard as in India, his cooking is amazing.
For starters came the tandoori stuffed capsicum (¥1,600). Six pieces of scooped out capsicum stuffed with potatoes, cashew nuts and raisins, baked in a tandoor oven. The warm blend of spices leaves you content just like a home-baked comfort food can and at the same time alight anticipation for what is to come next. Next, was, the shik kebab (¥1,600). For this, minced chicken and lamb is chopped with ginger, garlic, and coriander, arriving on your table still in the skewer. As with every dish at Priya, there is a certain understanding of spices that other Indian restaurants have yet to master. If you’re in doubt of what a particular spice is doing on any one dish, I urge you to go ahead and ask the Priya team. You’ll be surprised at what they know.
For the main course, I had the palak paneer (¥1,400). This is a spinach curry cooked with homemade cottage cheese, herbs and of course spices. Sometimes I add mushrooms, sometimes chicken, but every time it’s a wonderful dish. Nan bread or basmati rice completes each meal—one of each would satisfy two people.
For Priya, the word is out. Read it here first before someone else tells you the same; you really must go.
Byomkesh Panday, Owner / Manager at Priya Curry
Restauranteurs really don’t come much nicer than Byomkesh Panday. It had been a few months since I’d last visited his curry house along shoten gai in Hiroo and yet was welcomed back like a long-time regular. Even more impressive, Mr. Panday (as always seems fittingly to call such a polite man) remembered the spinach curry I had ordered previously and asked me if this time too I would like the same again. Now that’s service.
Those familiar with the Tokyo curry scene will remember Mr. Panday from his time at the Taj Mahal restaurant in Roppongi. He worked there as manager for a dedicated 15 years and in which time he perfected his innate knack for hospitality. This is a man who anticipates your next drink, will bring out more nan, offer dessert with remarkable precision, and still have the time to stop and talk with guests leaving or arriving at the restaurant.
In May of 2007, it was time to move on and Mr. Panday along with his chef Negi (who he had worked with closely for 14 years), opened Priya Curry. With 30 years of combined restaurant experience in Japan between them (not counting the 5-star hotels they worked in back in India), the menu was designed around authentic north Indian cuisine and with it, they encompassed a legendary Indian dictum ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’ or in other words, ‘the guest is truly your god.’
In India, you see, to share food with your guests is an honor. (The poorest too are reportedly willing to share their meager foods with guests whether invited or not.) If the honor is on the host of the meal, maybe now you can understand why Mr. Panday is always smiling.
Despite his long-term residency in Japan, Mr. Panday explains the most difficult aspect of opening the new restaurant was securing the location and finding a guarantor. However he did succeed and the restaurant opened to old time friends and faithful regulars who made efforts to support him in his new venture, and who didn’t want to miss out on what was clearly destined to be a great Indian restaurant.
Priya has been open for a year now, and on any lunchtime or any night of the week the restaurant has a great turnout. Guests may be there to eat what was once described as “the best curry in Japan” or maybe they are there for the service. Either way, you can bet Mr. Panday is smiling.
For more information on Byomkesh Panday and Priya curry, see www.priyajapan.tripod.com/index.html or call the
restaurant on 03-5941-6996