Volume 04, Number 07
Dining
From Japan to Hawaii
Fusion cuisine that keeps on evolving.
by Marie Teather
Two years ago, Fujimama’s Japanese and internationally inspired menu made a brave leap from the tables of foreign diners here in Tokyo, to the rather more exotic and sun-loving location of Hawaii.
The move was expected to be a hands-down success—after all, the Fujimama’s in Tokyo had already convinced Japanese diners that traditional Japanese dishes could be entwined with other Asian and international creations. Surely the palettes of diners in Hawaii would be easily swayed to new concepts of food?
But as with all moves overseas, the best of preparations cannot forecast culturally specific problems. Lauren Shannon, the Managing Director, explains one challenge that was soon encountered. The bilingual menus which diners here in Tokyo are so familiar with caused somewhat of confusion for American diners. “They just couldn’t understand why” and so now the Fujimama’s in Hawaii, has separate menus in English and Japanese.
Diners aside, management and restaurant staff, also experienced their own degrees of culture shock. Construction was soon realised to proceed at a much slower pace compared to the efficiency of Japanese builders, and initially caused frustration to the restauranteurs eager to complete the building.
In Hawaii, Lauren explains, the sun influences the islanders’ daily schedules and lives are lived outdoors. A particularly good day of sun and surf can even see workers abandon work for the day and head for the beach—quite the contrast to Japanese workers. And in keeping with the daylight hours, Hawaiians tend to rise earlier, and finish earlier and so Fujimama’s has also adapted the menus to suit these eating patterns. “In Hawaii, people tend to work to live and this is something we have learnt to respect and love too” says Lauren.
So what about the food? Setting up shop in Hawaii has provided access to a whole pantry of fresh and locally available fruits, produce that in Japan comes at a cost. The Fujimama’s in Hawaii has added a cocktail bar and an extensive list of cocktails are made with fresh fruits and vegetables.
Likewise all the fish that is used is farmed locally. The sushi bar has also proved to be a hit, and in keeping with the international fusing on the menu, chefs hail from Japan, California and Hawaii. The menu, successfully adapted to the local produce and the Hawaiian environment, continues to be a hit—just as in Tokyo—although diners unaccustomed to Japanese dining often have to be told that this is not a traditional Japanese restaurant.
More recently, in addition to the restaurant on Kailua Kona, the Huli Sue’s BBQ and Grill also opened on the big island of Hawaii. Here you can expect Hawaiian inspired burgers piled high with guacamole, chili, onions and bacon, and on the BBQ expect pork roasts, ribs, free-range chicken and beef brisket. To complete the move, Lauren describes the Fuji Farm, an area of land where the restaurant grows its own organic produce.
Fujimama’s is one of very few restaurants to take a menu and dining concept, derived from the international community living in Tokyo, overseas, and moreover it’s one that will continue to adapted to new challenges and environments. Next time you are in Hawaii, be sure to check it out.