Volume 04, Number 14
Travel
Two Decades of Deserts and Still Discovering
Marie Teather talks with Michael Martin.
As a high school student standing on the edge of the Sahara in Southern Morocco, Berlin-born Michael Martin looked out over the endless tide of sand, captivated by the promise of adventure and danger that lay beyond the distant horizon. Not deterred by stories of other European travelers who had lost their way and died an agonising death of thirst, the next year—as soon as he was able to—he was back and drove an old car right onto the Sahara, into the rocky Ahagger mountains, and stopped to drink tea with local French padres living in their hermitage of 30 years.
In the 20 years that have followed, Michael, an adventurer and professional photographer, has spent his life conquering the increasingly challenging and remote landscapes of not only Mauritania, Chad, and the Sudan in Africa, but the globe over. He has continued traveling on his BMW motorbike at times when politcal rebellions and civil wars have added to already life-threatening risks.
A qualified geologist and ethologist, Michael maintains that his own heroic exploits should not distract from the nomadic tribes and cultures who have lived in the deserts for hundreds of generations. Living a relativly unchanged existance, these peoples of the desert have survived through a deep and respectful relationship with their environment and it is this homage that keeps Michael going back. Encounters with the ethnic Himba Nomads in Namibia, Hindu pilgrims at Mount Kailashe, Omanese fishermen, and camel markets in Rajasthan have uniquely allowed Michael to learn from tribes the world over—not only of their values— but of more basic matters of survival such as different methods to ride a camel or put up a tent.
In anticipation of his recent book Deserts of the Earth; a breath-taking collection of photographs from his incredible five-year expediton with partner and camerawoman Elke, Micheal will be visiting Tokyo early next month and showcasing just some of the 80,000 pictures he was able to document. Weekender has been able to secure an exclusive interview with this fascinating adventurer.
What came first, your love of photography or your love of the deserts?
Photography was first, but deserts made the photography much more fascinating. Deserts are great places for photographers because of the light, the natural forms, and the people.
How did you plan your trips before the arrival of GPS navigation?
For the Sahara there were good maps available from the French Colonial Administrations and in southern Africa there are good maps drawn by South African editors. So I carried a lot of maps with a scale of 1:200,000 or 1:500,000 and I tried to get information from other travelers. But even today I don't plan too much—I decide each day where to go and what to do. If you are a professional photographer, whatever-need-be must be done for good photos. Weather conditions, for example, are very important to plan the next day's pictures.
Many European travelers have lost their lives even when trying to cross easier routes like the Hoggar trail in the Sahara. Have you had any life-threatening or close moments yourself?
In the eighties, crossing the Sahara was much more dangerous because of navigation and mechanical problems but the security situation was much better. Today, the situation has completely changed. My most dangerous situations were because of landmines and terrorism. For example, in northern Niger we were stopped for hours by Chad rebels.
What have been the most extreme climate conditions you have experienced?
In Djibouti, the deepest point of Africa, we had 51°C in the shadow. I was in many sandstorms in countries like Mauritania, Mali, or Niger. Conditions in sandstorms are even worse.
How do the extreme climates effect your equipment?
The sand and dust are the biggest problems. You must protect the equipment as much as possible. The heat doesn't matter but the coldness in Bolivia destroyed some films.
What are the most challenging trips in terms of your mental health or physical condition?
Crossing deserts in countries with landmines like Chad and Afghanistan is a big challenge. You must get as much information as possible and you must know whom you can trust. We were quite happy to leave Chad or Afghanistan in good condition. The high deserts of Tibet and Bolivia with a motorbike were a real challenge too, because of the coldness and the thin air. On Altiplno in Bolivia we were traveling on the motorbike at temperatures below minus 20°C. The thin air causes you to freeze even more. And we were very hungry, but had no more food.
The extreme cold, such as what you experienced in South America, or the extreme heat—which is the most challenging to you?
For me, the cold is a bigger challenge. On a motorbike you feel even colder. I have no problem with heat; same for the BMW.
How did your travel in Africa prepare you for your trips into the Asian and American deserts?
In Africa I learned to deal with drunken soldiers, to repair a motorbike, to find a good place for the night. All experiences I could use in Asia and America.
How have your trips changed since you started traveling with your partner?
I never traveled alone. I traveled with former partners or with friends, but Elke is the best travel partner I ever had, because she can handle the difficult conditions and be warm-hearted in dealing with people. If you want to get photos from people you must be able to communicate with them in a warm-hearted way.
Spending extensive periods in the total solidarity of the desert must be mentally challenging. How do you stop your mind from playing tricks on you and also stay positive?
All day we were traveling or photographing, so there is not much space for feeling alone. In the deserts I feel at home.
Have political troubles or the authorities ever interfered with your plans?
A lot. Countries like Iran or Turkmenistan don't like individual travelers much. And they don't like professional photographers. Fortunately for us, all the customs and security officers were so fascinated by our motorbike that they forgot their duties.
Have you ever found a camel to be a better form of transport to your bike?
A camel is too slow if you want to cross a complete desert. For me, a motorbike is the perfect combination between camel and a 4x4.
You mentioned the Afar nomads of the African Danakil Desert make it one of the “most hostile places on the planet.” What is so dangerous about them and have you had any personal encounters with them?
The Afars have been living in war for more than 30 years and they are living in an extremely hostile desert; the Danakil. They don't give you the feeling you are welcome and I didn't take many pictures of them to avoid problems.
What aspects of local nomadic life remain the same throughout the deserts of the world?
The nomads live for their animals, which they really love, and nomads always change their place, they seem to be more traditional and they feel in some way freer than the people in villages. I like nomads because I also have a nomadic lifestyle.
In your 20 years of traveling, how have you seen technology change the lifestyles of the nomads?
Because the nomad's lives are more traditional and most have little money, unable to buy a car instead of a camel, the lifestyle of the nomads hasn't changed much. But their lifestyles change completely if they lose their cattle to drought. It is very sad to see a Tuareg working as a night watchman for a company in an African capital.
Are the locals forewarned of your arrival as you travel through the deserts and how do they usually react when encountering you?
No, they don't know anything about our arrival. You should always arrive slowly. Keep the camera away, go slow by motorbike, and take off the helmet and sunglasses. The people must get the chance to trust you.
What is it about the nomads and their lifestyles that you respect the most?
To be so happy and optimistic under such difficult conditions. They show us that it is not money, cars, and iPods that make you happy, but family, friends, and nature.
What's the longest period you think you could personally endure in the desert or living life as a nomad?
Not very long because I am in love both with deserts and my life in Bavaria. My life in Germany is very fast and a great contrast to the deserts.
Which makes traveling easier—the naivety of being young or the experience of age?
Both have their own advantages. As an 18-year-old boy I had no fear and was open for all. As you get older, you know more and get more. I am 43 now. It's a perfect combination between both!
You are obviously well adapted to a solitary life out under the open skies. Do you think you could you live in Tokyo which is perhaps the most extreme opposite to desert life?
Yes, if I am allowed to escape to the deserts every two months!
You have completed over 80 trips in the deserts, what's next for you?
One third of the land-surface of the earth is deserts and semi-deserts so there are many areas left to explore. I think the relationship between deserts and people, and between people and desert is extremely interesting. I will photograph worldwide the lifestyle of desert people and my travels will take me to many countries—on my BMW motorbike.
Hoping to hear and see more? As mentioned above, Michael will be speaking in Tokyo about his adventures in the Deserts of the Earth. The event takes place at the Goethe-Institut on August 1 from :30pm. Entrance is free and there will be Bayern Meister Beer and German sausages on sale. Please make reservations at 080-1088-4257.