Volume 04, Number 07

Travel

Getting Away from the Kids: Chiva Som
By Christine Cunanan-Miki

If I were asked where I would most like to spend an R&R week, in a heartbeat, I would say "Chiva Som" and my thoughts would already be racing to the balmy beaches of Hua Hin, two hours out of Bangkok. Chiva Som (www.chivasom.com) is a multi-awarded East-West adults-only health and beauty resort right along the gulf of Thailand. Last year, Conde Nast Traveller (UK) named it the "World's Best Destination Spa."

When it first opened ten years ago, destination spas were almost unknown in Asia and Chiva Som's details were passed around at dinner parties like a delicious stock tip. Of course, the ladies were more enthusiastic about such information.

I can still remember how, upon hearing about it, my female friends all wanted to go, but (save for the clued-in metrosexuals) none of the men would admit to similar desires; and the gallant few who did accompany their wives initially had to be dragged onto the plane kicking and screaming—until they discovered for themselves how wonderful such places can be. But these days, Chiva Som has grown famous and a visit to this small and still exclusive resort is already an annual or semi-annual ritual for many highly stressed Tokyoites.

A week at Chiva Som is literally a gift of a week for yourself—your boss, your family, and any emotional baggage are left at the resort gate, although there are various kinds of mental therapists on call if you want to let them in. You check in and, with your room keys, you are given a rather daunting menu of activities and treatment options and full run of the place. The objective is for each guest to leave the resort in optimal physical and mental condition; and since the route to such perfection is different for everyone, there are almost as many different programs and treatments as there are guests. If you just want to veg out and lie by the beach, or need a program tailor-made for you, that's fine too. There's no stress except the stress to be your best self.

We booked a seven-night stay for our first visit, and half our bags were packed with books and magazines. We also had noble intentions of visiting the royal holiday town of Hua Hin to experience local color. Well, the reading materials remained unpacked and we were so happily busy that we forgot to leave the resort. A typical day for us began with a 6am power walk by the beach, followed by 7am tai chi classes, a healthy breakfast of rice gruel, fruits, and cereals at 8am, and a stretch class at 9am. We then headed to the indoor swimming pool for an hour of water aerobics and then another hour of dawdling in the communal Turkish steam room. Before we knew it, it was time for lunch and a short nap, and then another gym workout, a swim in the sea, or a New Age class that sounded too interesting to miss. But whatever we were doing, we made sure we were at the spa by 4:30pm for half an hour in the sauna and a Thai massage (rooms come with one massage per night). Now completely pampered and exercised, we had just enough time afterward to dress for a 7:30pm dinner. On most nights, too, the resort organized interesting lectures ranging from Buddhist existentialism and Thai culture to New Age healing and hypnosis, and we attended those that seemed interesting. Other nights, we were fast asleep by 9pm, lulled by the scent of lemon grass and lavender placed in large celadon aromatherapy pots at turndown.

In all our visits, we never missed the TV (there are none in the rooms) or the newspapers, and I've even intentionally left my computer behind. Whenever we could spare an hour or two, we were off on beauty treatments (me), stimulating New Age therapies (me), or private stretch or workout sessions with trainers (my husband). They also have a wide range of medical services, so we've had general consultations with doctors from Bangkok, comprehensive blood tests, and even 3D heart scans.

Chiva Som is not cheap and the rooms are pleasantly functional rather than luxurious by Thai resort standards. But many guests are regulars so the satisfaction level is very high. Most feel entirely rejuvenated after a week's stay. Another bonus is that you will almost certainly lose weight (an international model reportedly spent a month here after giving birth to regain her shape) since the food is mostly organic and sans oil, salt, and unhealthy fats. Dinner is a three-course event that includes dessert and is served on porcelain and silver platters, so you don't feel deprived of the good things in life at all!

If you've just spent months nurturing and caring for other people and are looking for some TLC yourself, look no further than this special place in Thailand.